A walking tour of Amsterdam

< Prev | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Next >

Cross over Westermarkt to Rozengracht, which once was a canal (in 1658, after he went bust, Rembrandt moved with his son Titus and his mistress Hendrickje from his fine mansion in the Jewish Quarter to a plain house, that no longer exists, on Rozengracht). Continue along Prinsengracht to Reestraat, where you turn left. At Keizersgracht go right, across Berenstraat, to Keizersgracht 324:

10. Felix Meritis

This structure was built in 1788 by Jacob Otten Husly as the headquarters of a Calvinist philosophical society. The name (which was the group's motto) means "Happiness Through Merit," and they invited such luminaries as Czar Alexander I and Napoleon to this Palladian setting, with Corinthian columns and triangular pediment, to experience the consolations of this philosophy. The building later was home to the Dutch Communist Party, and now hosts avant-garde theater, music and dance performances.

Story continues below ↓

advertisement | your ad here

On this stretch of Keizersgracht, from Berenstraat to Runstraat, instead of standing directly in front of buildings of interest, craning your neck skyward to eyeball the detail, walk along the near bank of the canal (with even-numbered houses) and look across the water to the other side, so that you can view things in panorama (in summer, leaves on elm trees along the canal screen some facades, and you might prefer to cross over for a closer look).

11. Berenstraat to Runstraat

The third building along from Wolvenstraat (no. 313), an office block from 1914, is almost modern in Keizersgracht-time.

Two houses along (no. 317), is the stately canalside home that belonged to Christoffel Brants, who counted Peter the Great among his acquaintances. A story goes that Peter sailed into Amsterdam in 1716, planning to stay a night here. The Czar of All the Russias got royally drunk, kept the mayor waiting at a reception in his honor, and then removed to the Russian ambassador's residence at Herengracht 527 to sleep off his hangover.

Next door (no. 319), is a work by Philips Vingboons from 1639, as you can easily tell from the Latin numerals MDCXXXIX inscribed on it. You can compare this ornate neoclassical facade with graceful neck gable to the Theatermuseum building by the same architect, at Herengracht 168.

Note how narrow is the facade of the seventh building before Huidenstraat (no. 345A), and run your eyes over the trio of graceful neck gables on the last three houses (nos. 353-357).

At Runstraat, cross over to Huidenstraat and go along it to Herengracht. Turn right to Herengracht 366-368:

12. Bijbels Museum (Biblical Museum)

Two of a group of four 1660s houses (nos. 364-370) with delicate neck gables, this museum was designed by architect Philips Vingboons for timber merchant Jacob Cromhout, and known as the Cromhuithuizen and as the "Father, Mother, and Twins." The museum, naturally enough, features Bibles and things biblical, but its canal house setting and illuminated ceilings by Jacob de Wit are at least as interesting.

Continue a few doors farther along Herengracht, to nos. 380-382:

CONTINUED

< Prev | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Next >

Discuss Story On Newsvine
Rate Story:
View popularLowHigh
Email
Instant Message
Print